The Overall “Motion” And Control Function Is Simple, And Somewhat Similar To Any Bait Casting Reel. With Most Baitcasters, You Flip A Tiny Lever Or Switch To Engage The Reel From Free Spool. A Lever Drag Is Similar, Only You Use The Lever, Sliding It From Free Spool To The Strike Position. Instead Of Using A Star Knob To Adjust Drag Tension While Fighting A Fish, You Simply Move The Same Lever Forward Or Back To Increase And Decrease Drag. You Can Move The Lever Back And Forth All You Want, And Still Get Back To The Original Drag Setting By Placing The Lever In The Strike Position. A Star Drag Is Nearly Impossible To Find The Original Drag Setting Once It Has Been Moved. The Strike Preset Feature Of An Avet Lever Drag Eliminates Any Guessing.

Avet Lever Drags Work Using An Adjustable Strike Preset. Refer To Page 12 Of The Owner’s Manual Located HERE For Detailed Drag Preset Instructions

The M.C. Cast, Or “Magic Cast”, Is An Adjustable Magnetic Anti-Backlash Cast Control System Using Lenz’s Law To Prevent Line Overrun And “Birds’ Nests” While Casting. When Casting A Lure, Its Velocity Through The Air (And Pull On The Line Coming From The Spool) Is Gradually Slowed Due To Wind Resistance, And Altitude Drop After Reaching Its Apex In Flight. Although The Lure Slows Down, The Reel Spool Continues To Spin At The Same Velocity As The Lure Before It Slowed Down, Resulting In A Line Overrun Or Backlash. Unlike Most Baitcasting Reels That Apply Resistance To The Spool To “Tame” The Free Spin By Applying Mechanical Friction, The MC Cast System Makes No Contact With The Spool At All. It Works Using A Powerful Magnet Mounted In The Frame Pointing At The Aluminum Side Of The Spool. Although Aluminum Is Not Magnetic, When It Spins, It Creates Its Own Magnetic Field. The Magnet Interrupts This Magnetic Field Generated By The Spinning Spool, Creating And Eddy Current And A Slight Braking Effect. The Power Of The Braking Effect Is Directly Proportionate To The Speed That The Spool Is Spinning, The Faster The Spin, The More Powerful The Braking. More Importantly, The Slower The Spin, The Less Braking, And No Spin At All Means No Braking. This Is A Benefit That Mechanical Friction Cast Controls Do Not Have. Because The Braking Effect Is Proportionate To The Speed Of The Spool, And The MC Cast System Makes Absolutely No Friction Contact With The Spool, The Start-Up Inertia To Get The Spool Moving While Casting Is Completely Unaffected, And Has No Braking Or Friction To Overcome To Get The Spool Moving. This Is Critical For Casting Efficiency, Especially When Casting Very Small Or Light Baits. This Is Also Beneficial When Letting A Small Bait Swim And Pull Line, Or Even Simply Dropping A Light Weight To The Bottom With No Spool Resistance.

The Size And Power Of The Magnet Is Calibrated In Proportion To The Mass Of The Spool Of Each Model With Line Installed, To Provide The Exact Same Resistance As Your Thumb Would Normally Apply To The Spool While Casting. The Power Of The Magnet Is Adjustable To Accommodate Different Casting Weights And Wind Conditions Using Avets’ Patented Polar Amplification Technology. Adjusted Correctly, You Will Not Have To Thumb The Spinning Spool While The Lure Is Flying Through The Air. The M.C. Cast Option (Standard On Raptors) Will Have You Casting Like A Pro, Even If You Have Never Cast A Conventional Baitcasting Style Reel.

Installing An M.C. Frame Kit Is Simple. It Helps To Tape Down The Loose End Of Line On The Spool To Geep It Managable. Slide The Drag Lever Forward Enough To Have Drag, But Not Blocking Any Screw Heads. This Will Hold The Allignment Of The Spool Shaft In Place For Easy Re-Assembly Into The New M.C. Frame. Now, Remove The 3 Philips Mounting Screws Around The Drive Side Face Plate. The Entire Reel Will Now Slide Out Of The Frame In One Piece. Notice On The End Of The Spool Shaft There Is A Cross Pin, And Inside Of The Frame There Is A Hole In The Center With A Slot That The Shaft End And Cross Pin Mates To. Being Careful Not To Move The Drag Lever, Carefully Slide The Reel Into The New M.C. Frame The Same Way It Came Out Of The Original Frame. Gently Twist The Frame And Reel Assembly Until The Spoolshaft And Cross Pin Allign And Seat Into The Hole. The Sideplate And Frame Should Now Be Flush. Re-Install The Faceplate Screws, Making Sure They Are Snug, And Youre Done!

The M.C. Cast Is The Most Reliable And Consistent Cast Control Available, Making The Avet M.C. Reels The Easiest Reels To Cast, Even If You Have Never Cast A Conventional Style Reel.

Start With The M.C. Cast Control Adjustment Knob Turned To The Maximum Setting, 5. While Casting, Hold The Spool With Your Thumb, Cast, And Let It Fly! While The Lure Is Flying Through The Air, Don’t Thumb The Spinning Spool, Let The Magnet Do Its Work. Just Before The Lure Hits The Water, Stop The Spool With Your Thumb. Repeat, And Gradually Reduce The Adjustment Setting With Each Cast. Once You See Loose Line Forming On The Spool While It’s Spinning, Increase The Setting By One Number. Casting Lighter Weights Will Require Higher Settings, And Heavier Weights Will Use Lower Settings. You Will Quickly Develop A “Feel” For Which Settings Work Best For Your Style Of Casting, The Type Of Rod You Are Using, Different Weights, And Casting Into Headwinds.

Yes. Avet Reels Are All Designed, Machined And Assembled In Our Factory In Chatsworth California. Every Part Including All Internals Are Made In House With The Exception Of The Bearings Which Are Sourced From Several Suppliers Around The Los Angeles Area.

Every Series (Or Diameter) Of Avet Reel Features A Narrow Version, Denoted With The Letter “J” (Example: MXJ, JX, HXJ), Which Means “Jig”. Narrow Spools Are Often Preferred For Fishing Techniques That Involve Continuous Casting And Retrieving. The Narrow Spool Facilitates Easier And Less Frequent Line Leveling While Retrieving And The Lighter Spool And Less Line Mass Makes It Much Easier To Cast. Narrow Reels Also More Stable While Retrieving. Having The Handle Closer To The Center-Line Of The Rod Reduces “Cranking Wobble.

Unless You Are In The Greater Los Angeles Area Of California, No. There Are No Authorized Service Centers Other Than Our Factory In Chatsworth California.

Your Avet Reel Should Be Serviced AT Least Once A Season. This Is Based On The Average Fisherman Fishing 15-20 Days Per Season. If You Fish More Than This, You Reel Should Be Serviced Twice Per Season. We Highly Recommend Getting Your Reel Professionally Serviced By Our Service Department. The Service Costs $35. This Covers Cleaning And Lubes, Replacement Of Any Needed Bearings, Inspection, And Shipping Back To You.

Click HERE For Information On How To Obtain Factory Service.

Your Avet Reel Is A Precision Machined Instrument. For Maximum Durability, Reasonable Care Must Be Given For Ultimate Performance Of The Reel. Please View These Images Of A Reel That Was NOT Cared For Properly, To Get A Better Idea Of Why We Recommend The Following Basic Care Instructions For An Avet Reel: Salty Reel Image

After Each Fishing Trip The Reel Should Be Cleaned. Rinse The Reel In Fresh Water To Remove Accumulated Salt Deposits. The Best Way To Rinse An Avet Reel Is To Submerge The Reel In Cool Fresh Water, Shake It Under The Water For 5-6 Seconds, Remove And Shake Out The Excess Water. Do Not Let The Reel Soak Under Water, Or Use Warm Or Soapy Water, As You Don’t Want To Start Removing Lubricants. You Simply Want To Flash Rinse The Saltwater From Inside Before It Evaporates And Leaves Salt Behind. Just Rinsing The Outside Of The Reel Does Nothing For The INSIDE Which Is The Most Important, Where Salt Does The Most Damage. Understandably, It Can Be A Hassle Removing The Reels From Your Rods, Especially If You Use Them Daily Like The Hundreds Of Guides And Charter Captains Do. Many Of Our Captains And Pro Staff Use A Simple And Effective Method That Works Very Well. Taking An Inexpensive Tall Plastic Kitchen Sized Trash Can Filled With Water, They Dunk The Butt End Of Each Rod With The Reel Attached, Shake It Up And Down For 5-6 Seconds, And Done! This Is Actually Faster, And Uses Less Water Than Haphazardly Spraying The Gear Down With A Hose, And It Takes Care Of Any Salt Inside The Reel As Well As Outside.

Dry Excess Moisture From The Reel And Sparingly Lube Exposed Mechanisms Using Your Included Avet Lube, Or Any High Quality Lube Designed For Saltwater Applications. You Should Use A High Quality Spray Lubricant Sprayed Onto A Rag To Wipe Down The Outer Surfaces Of The Reel To Protect It And Displace Any Moisture, And To Help Protect It The Next Time It’s Used. Do Not Spray Lubricant Directly On The Reel. Spray Lube Acts As A Penetrating Solvent And Will Dissolve And Flush Away The Grease And Lubricant Vital To The Working Mechanisms. Also, The Drag Surfaces Are Just Inside Of The Gap Between The Spool And Frame On The Drive Side Of The Reel. Spraying Lubricant/Protectant In This Area Will Foul The Drag Surfaces And Will Make The Drag Jerky. Your Avet Reel Should Be Stored In A Cool Dry Place. Do Not Store In A Sealed Plastic Bag Or Airtight Container, As The Reel May Develop Condensation. Always Be Sure To Store Your Reel With The Lever Drag In The Free Position To Release Pressure From Various Components Of The Reel. This Will Also Allow The Drag Surfaces And Internal Parts To Dry If They Are Wet. Periodically Examine Your Reel For Loose Screws Or Fittings And Take Action If Necessary. Your Avet Reel Should Have A Full Tear Down Clean And Lube Service At Least Once Every Season, More With Heavy Use.

The Drag Surfaces Don’t Wear Out On An Avet Reel, And Only Need Replacing In Extreme Cases. If The Drag Feels Less Than Perfect, A Simple Cleaning Will Refurbish It To Like New Performance. Remove The Bearings From The Spool, And Run The Spool And Carbon Drag Surface Under Warm Tap Water. With A Drop Of Dish Soap And A Tooth Brush, Vigorously Scrub The Carbon Surface To Remove Any Contaminants. Hold The Spool Under The Warm Running Tap Water And Continue Scrubbing Until The Foam Disappears And Blot Dry With A Paper Towel. Never Attempt To Remove The Carbon Drag From The Spool (Raptor Models Are Not Attached). It Can Only Be Replaced In Our Factory Using A Specialized High Temp Adhesive And Curing Fixture To Insure Perfect Trueness.

No. Avet Reels Feature A Woven Carbon Fiber Dry Drag System. Because The Carbon Disc Is Woven, The Tops Of The Weaves Are What Make Surface Contact With The Mating Stainless Steel Disc. This Is The Surface Area And Dry Friction Coefficient That All Of The Other Components In The Drag System Are Designed And Calibrated Around. This Includes The Cam Ramp Angles And Belleville Pressure Washers (Drag Pressure Springs), That As A Whole Determine The Drag Curve For The Line Class Range The Reel Is Designed For. Greasing The Drag Fills In The Voids Between The Weaves, Multiplying The Actual Surface Area Contact Between The Carbon And Steel Discs, And Throwing Off The Drag Curve. This Condition Makes The Drag Lever Extremely Sensitive To Adjustment, Substantially Increasing Or Decreasing Drag Pressure With Only A Fraction Of The Travel Of The Lever, Especially When The Reel Is Used In The Lighter Line Class Range A Particular Model Is Designed To Accommodate.

Although We Do Not Offer Reels Direct To Consumers, We Do However, Sell Parts, Accessories, And Maintenance Service Direct, As Well As Any Authorized Avet Reel Dealer. Contact Us Directly By Email Or Phone. For Accessories And Gear Listed In The Catalog Or Website, Simply Order It By Name. If You Are Ordering Replacement Parts For Your Reel, Please Use The Part Numbers In The Schematic/Parts List For Your Exact Reel Model Found HERE.

There Are A Few Different Causes That Will Make A Drag Feel Jerky. The Number One Cause Actually Has Nothing To Do With The The Drag At All, It’s Usually The LINE SLIPPING On The Spool, Or Burying Into Itself. This Is The Most Common Issue, And Is Always Initially Mis-Diagnosed As A Drag Issue. Please Read The Spectra Precautions HERE.

Once Slipping Line Has Been Positively Ruled Out, The Only Other Cause Of A Jerky Or Inconsistent Drag Is Contamination On The Drag Friction Surfaces. The Most Common Causes Of Drag Surface Contamination Are Spraying Lubricants/Protectants Directly Onto The Reel Where It Gets Between The Spool And Frame And Contaminates The Drag. Never Spray Lubricants Directly On The Reel. Instead, Spray It Onto A Rag And Wipe The Surfaces Of The Reel. Another Cause Of Drag Surface Contamination Is Over Lubrication Of The Reel. It Is Not Necessary To Pack The Reel With Grease, Or Flood It With Oil. Use Lubricant Sparingly And Precisely.

If You Experience A Jerky Or Inconsistent Drag, Check For Line Slippage, Burying, Or Line Under-Wraps First. If The Issue Seems To Be Contamination, The Drag Can Be Restored Back To Perfect Condition With A Simple Cleaning. Remove The Bearings From The Spool, And Run The Spool And Carbon Drag Surface Under Warm Tap Water. With A Drop Of Dish Soap And A Tooth Brush, Vigorously Scrub The Carbon Surface To Remove Any Contaminants. Hold The Spool Under The Warm Running Tap Water And Continue Scrubbing Until The Foam Disappears And Blot Dry With A Paper Towel.

Absolutely It Is! Spectra Line Significantly Enhances Line Capacity, Has Less Drag Cutting Through Water, Has Near Zero Stretch For Sensitivity Down Deep…It’s A Great Match For Our Compact, Powerful Reels. Before Spooling Your Avet Reel With Spectra, Please Read Our Braided Line Precautions HERE.

Yes! Avet Reels Are Available In True Left Hand Models, Machined Mirror Image To The Right Hand Models. They Are Not Converted Lefty’s With Backwards Controls. We Only Stock Left Handed Models In Silver, But We Can Build Them In Any Of Our Colors For An Additional $35. Simply Have Your Dealer Special Order Left Handed Reels In The Color Of Your Choice. The EXW 80 Is The Only Model Not Machined As A Lefty, They Are Converted To Left From Right Hand.

Yes, As Long As It Is A Current Model Listed In Our 2008-Present Catalogs, Or This Website. It Will Require A Frame Replacement With The Machined Port To Accept The Adjustable M.C. Unit. The Frames Are Sold Complete And Assembled With All Of The Components. Installation Is Simple; Just Remove The 3 Face Plate Screws On The Drive Side Of Your Reel. The Entire Reel Will Slide Out Of The Original Frame In One Piece With No Small Parts To Lose. Simply Slide The Reel Into The New M.C. Cast Frame, Reinstall The 3 Face Plate Screws, And You’re Ready To Cast! See Our M.C. Frames HERE.

The M.C. Cast Frame Will Not Fit Older Discontinued Models.

No. Avets Use A Patented Silent Mechanical Dog And Gear Anti- Reverse System, Direct To The Drag Plate. Because Of The Powerful Drag Capabilities Of Our Reels, Roller Clutch Bearings Simply Don’t Hold Up To The Pressure Translated Through The Gear Reduction To The Handle Where A Roller Clutch Bearing Would Be. The Avet Silent Dog And Gear Mechanism Has Proven To Be The Strongest And Most Reliable Anti- Reverse Thus Far.

In Most Cases, If An Avet Clamp System Doesn’t Fit, It’s Because The Rods’ Reel Seat Diameter Is Too Large For The Length Of The Studs That Came With The Reel. We Offer Longer Shoulder Nuts To Reach The Studs. We Also Have Longer Studs.

No. Although The Raptor Series Reels Are Similar In Size To Their Original Avet Counterparts, The Frame And Spool Dimensions Are Slightly Different. All Of The Major Components Like The Spool And Drive Side Plate Have Different, And Much More Intricate Machining Inside To Accept The Raptor Dual Drag System. Although They Look Similar, And Sized Similar To The Original Avets, They Are Completely Different Reels.

No, The Drag On Your New Avet Reel Will Perform To Specs Right Out Of The Box. However, The Drag Will Gradually Become Slightly More Powerful Over Time.

If An Avet Reel Won’t Go Into Free-Spool When The Lever Is Moved All The Way Back To The Free Position, This Usually Means That The Drag Pre-Set Is Adjusted Beyond The Maximum Range The Reel Is Designed For. An LX (Non Raptor) For Example, Is Designed To Put Out 15lbs. Of Drag At Strike, And 20lbs. At Full. Adjusting The Pre-Set Knob Beyond This Range, The Reel Will Lose Free-Spool Capability When The Lever Is Backed Off To The Free Position. If You Test The Drag Pressure On Your Reel By Pulling Line Attached To A Fishing Scale Against The Drag, And It Doesn’t Reach The Rated Maximum Drag Before Losing Free-Spool Capability, Then The Line Is Likely To Be Slipping On The Spool. In This Condition, No Matter How Tight You Adjust The Drag Knob To Increase Drag Pressure, The Pressure Will Not Increase. This Is Because The Drag System Isn’t Even Turning; In This Case, You Are Simply Feeling The Friction Of The Line Slipping On The Surface Of The Spool, And Over Compensating The Drag Adjustment Beyond Its Range.

All SX, MXJ And MXL Models Now Ship With A Modified Foot Designed To Fit 99% Of The Trigger Style Graphite Reel Seats Currently On The Market. The Avet Trigger Seat Foot Is Rounded (Like A Duck Bill) On One End (The End That Will Fit Into The Rear Pocket On The Graphite Seat), And Squared Off On The Other End. The Easiest Way To Tell If Your Reel Has The Trigger Seat Foot Or Not, Is If Each End Of The Foot Is Identical, You Have A Standard Foot. If Each End Is A Different Shape (One End Rounded, The Other Square), You Have A Trigger Seat Foot.

The Trigger Seat Foot Is ONLY Available For SX, MXJ And MXL Series Reels. The Larger Reels (JX-HX Series) Put Out Too Much Drag For The Thin, Shallow Rear Pocket On A Graphite Uni-Body Style Trigger Seat, And Will Eventually Pull Out Of The Reel Seat Under Load. The Reel Will Then Proceed Down Your Rod At A High Rate Of Speed, Breaking Off Each Guide Before Splashing Into The Water. This Is Why We Do Not Offer Trigger Seat Feet For These Larger Models.

The M.C. Cast Does Not Affect Free Spool, But It Does Generate A Slight Braking Effect When The Spool Gets Up To Speed. The M.C. Unit Makes No Contact With The Spool At All, So The Spool Is Totally Free Of Any Friction, And Is Only Influenced By The Eddy Current Created By The Magnet When The Spool Spins Fast. A Common Misconception When An M.C. Equipped Avet Is Compared To An Identical Non M.C. Avet Out Of The Box, Or Out Of The Display Case At Your Dealer Regarding Free Spool: Without Line, The M.C. Will Not Seem To Spin As Long As The Non M.C. Model. This Is Because The Magnets’ Size And Power Are Calibrated For The Total Mass Of The Spool WITH LINE. Without Line, The Empty Aluminum Spool Is Very Light And Is Over-Influenced By The Powerful Magnet. Once The Reel Is Loaded With Line And The Overall Mass Of The Spool Is Up To What The Power Of The Magnet Is Designed For, The Spool Will Spin Much Longer. Also Keep In Mind, The M.C. Cast Generates Near Identical “Braking” Or “Feathering” Of The Spool As Your Thumb Would Normally Do While Casting, And Is Designed To Replace Your Thumb For This Task. So, If You Took An Identical M.C. Avet And Non M.C. Avet, Both Loaded With Line, And Spin The Spools To Casting Speed, The M.C. Reel Will Spin Equally As Long As The Non M.C. With Your Thumb Applied “Feathering” The Spool. Judging Free Spool / Cast-Ability By How Long It Spins, Out Of Actual Real Fishing/Casting Application, Is Really Misleading. In Actuality, You Cant Cast A Total Free Spool Without Back-Lashing, Which Is Why You Have To Thumb And Feather The Spool In Real Conditions. The M.C. Cast Simply Replaces Your Thumb And Eliminates Any “Human Error” Encountered From Real On The Water Conditions. A Pitching Boat, Cramped Space And An Awkward Casting Angle, Bumping Elbows With Fellow Anglers..Even Adrenaline, Have A Direct Effect On The Subtleties Of Thumbing A Spinning Spool, Even With The Most “Educated” Thumb. The M.C. Cast Is Consistent Every Time.

Yes! Avet Offers Several Other Colors Besides The Standard Silver Gold Or Blue Which We Stock By Default. Other Colors Are Available By Special Order Through Your Avet Dealer.

The Engraved Numbers Around The Drag Preset Knob Are Simple And Convenient Reference Marks Only. They Can Be Used To Hash Up With The Lever Arm As A Reference When It Is All The Way Back To Free Spool And You Are Pre-Setting Your Drag. The Numbers Themselves Dont Have Any Significance Other Than Reference Points Around The Knob. They Are Not “Actual Poundage” Indicators, And Are Not Timed With The Threads Or Cam. As Of Late 2011, We Stopped Engraving Numbers On The Drag Pre-Set Knob To Avoid Confusion.

No, A Huge Fish Will Not Damage Your Avet Reel. The Line Will Break Or The Drag Will Slip At Its Maximum Before Enough Pressure Could Damage The Structure Of The Reel. The Worst Case Scenario Is You May Be “Spooled” And Lose Your Line.

Avet Reels Are Type-2 Anodized 6061 T6 Marine/Aircraft Grade Aluminum. The Inherent Corrosion Resistance Of The 6061 T6 And The Anodizing Itself Are The Same Regardless Of The Colored Dye That Tints The Aluminum Oxide Layer Of The Anodizing. But, Darker More Opaque Colors Will Have A Slightly Thicker Dye And Sealer, Not By Much, But Slightly. Black Will Be Ever So Slightly More Scratch Resistant Than Silver, But On The Other Hand, A Scratch Deep Enough To Show The Silver Aluminum On A Black Reel Will Stand Out Much More Noticeably Than A Silver Scratch On A Silver Reel. So It’s A Small Trade Off Either Way, So The Best Plan Is To Go With The Color You LIKE, Rather Than Let The Micro Minute Differences In Abrasion Resistance Decide.

The Avet Raptor Series Are Basically Our Original 2-Speed M.C. Avet Reels Re-Engineered With Our Patented Dual Direct Drive Full Surface Caliper Brake System That Puts Out Twice The Drag Pressure Of The Original Single Drag Avet Reels. They Are Similar In Size As The Originals, But Optimized To Take Advantage Of The Full Potential Of Modern Super Braid Lines. The Raptors Are Not Upgraded Replacements For The Original Reels, But An Additional Series, Designed To Fish Several Line Classes Higher Than The Original Single Drag Reels. Raptor Drag Curves Are Fine Tuned To, And Perform Best With Higher Line Classes And Drag Settings, While The Original Single Drag Avets Have Drag Curves More Suitable To The Typical Line Class To Reel Size Ratio. As An Example, A Single Drag SX Is Rated At 9 Lbs. Max At Strike, Which Puts The Drag Curve Comfortably At A 20-25 Lb. Line Class Reel That Will Also Fish As Low As 10-12lb Test. The SX Raptor On The Other Hand Puts Out 17 Lbs. Of Drag At Strike, Making The Drag Curve Most Effective At Around 40-50lb Line, And As Low As 25-30lb. Comfortably. The Reels Are Similar In Size, But Engineered For Different Line Classes. It’s Not A Matter Of Choosing One Over The Other, It’s A Matter Of Choosing The Right Reel For The Type Of Fishing You Want To Do. The SX Raptor Would Really Be A Better Consideration Over A JX Or LX Single Drag If You Prefer A Lighter, Compact Reel With The Same Capabilities.

Absolutely You Can! Avet Reels Are Designed With Proven Simplicity In Mind, And Are Easy To Service Yourself. For Self-Service, Use The Parts Schematic Included With Your Reel As A Guide. Select A Clean, Quiet, Well Lit Work Area, And The Proper Tools. Organize The Parts In The Order In Which You Remove Them, Don’t Rely On Just Your Memory.

A Digital Camera Can Be An Invaluable Tool As You Tear Down The Reel. An Old Toothbrush, Mineral Spirits, Denatured Alcohol, Or Common Dish Soap And Water Are Safe Alternatives To Clean And De-Grease Parts. When Re-Assembling The Reel, Lubricate The Frictional Surfaces Of Moving Parts Using A High Quality Waterproof Grease And Lube Such As The Avet Ultra Grease And Avet Lube Available From Your Avet Dealer. Do Not Over-Lubricate, As Lube In The Wrong Places Such As The Drag Surfaces Can Cause Poor Performance. Sparingly Apply Grease To High Friction Components Like Gear Teeth, Cam Surfaces And Clicker Assembly. The Spool Bearings Should Be Sparingly Lubed With A High Quality Oil Like The Avet Lube, With The Excess Blotted Away To Avoid Flinging And Contaminating The Drag Surfaces When The Spool Spins. The Drag Surfaces Don’t Wear Out On An Avet Reel, And Only Need Replacing In Extreme Cases. If The Drag Feels Less Than Perfect, A Simple Cleaning Will Refurbish It To Like New Performance. Remove The Bearings From The Spool, And Run The Spool And Carbon Drag Surface Under Warm Tap Water. With A Drop Of Dish Soap And A Tooth Brush, Vigorously Scrub The Carbon Surface To Remove Any Contaminants. Hold The Spool Under The Warm Running Tap Water And Continue Scrubbing Until The Foam Disappears And Blot Dry With A Paper Towel. Never Attempt To Remove The Carbon Drag From The Spool (Raptor Models Are Not Attached). It Can Only Be Replaced In Our Factory Using A Specialized Fixture To Insure Perfect Trueness. When Final Assembling Your Avet Reel, Lubricating The Screw Threads And Holes Will Make It Easier To Remove Them For The Next Servicing, As Well As Insulating To Prevent Electrolysis And Protect Them From Corrosion. Tighten Screws Securely With A Correct Fitting Screwdriver, But Don’t Over Tighten. Regular Servicing And Keeping The Reel Well Maintained Will Ensure A Long Life For Your Avet Reel